Gown fashion designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, gave up the ghost at her place of dwelling on Thursday after extended sickness on the age of 91. The primary Indian to win an Oscar for her paintings within the 1983 movie Gandhi started her profession as a dressing up fashion designer in Hindi motion pictures with Guru Dutt’s 1956 destroy hit C.I.D. She entrenched her Indian design sensibilities at the international firmament when she gained the Academy Award for Absolute best Gown Design in Richard Attenborough’s Gandhi together with John Mollo. Her Mumtaz-style sari nonetheless stays some of the sought-after types for fashionistas. Fashion designer Ritu Kumar, who used to be her good friend and colleague stocks, “I’m so disenchanted to listen to this. You don’t lead them to like that anymore. Actually, when she gained the Oscar, which I felt she in reality deserved, numerous other people would ask, ‘why and what did she do within the movie?’ and I might be like, ‘You should be joking?’ She had a deep figuring out of gown designing and he or she used to be at all times original and multidimensional – be it sourcing for khadi or a movie’s decor. Her paintings proves that she by no means glamorised any state of affairs and stayed true to the storyboard and director’s imaginative and prescient. To be a dressing up fashion designer in motion pictures may be very tough as one realises that one is the least vital member of the workforce and one will get the remaining precedence, however one’s paintings is of paramount significance. As a result of when other people watch a movie, garments are one thing they’re going to realize first. In her illustrious frame of labor, she exercised massive quantities of restraint and there used to be at all times a way of steadiness. The way in which she draped dhotis and styled her characters used to be original with out getting into right into a glam mode.”
Ritu and Bhanu spoke about society, converting occasions and their mutual love for textiles, prints and cinema to one another on every occasion they met. “A few times she spoke to me about cloth sourcing as I paintings within the craft house. In Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962), Meena Kumari used to be intended to be dressed in Benarasi saris all over, which made her glance slightly stiff so Bhanu included the light-weight web into the appearance to genre her, which made her glance stunning. After some extent, we went into the world of Bollywood, which used to be dream collection pushed and this used to be now not her specialty and he or she didn’t revel in it. A duration movie like Lagaan used to be extra up her alley and I favored the way in which she depicted the ridiculous stiff higher lip Brits who wore yards and yards of materials within the scorching Indian climate. She understood the Indian background and the Indianness of ours fantastically,” stocks Ritu.
“We met off and on at awards purposes and it used to be beautiful to peer that although she used to be styling one of the crucial greatest stars, she used to be by no means star-struck. I at all times loved my time together with her. She used to be self-effacing. The 50s and 60s have been the eras when other people weren’t pushing or selling themselves , it used to be an international with out cellphones and one would regularly get caught on a shoot. She instructed me concerning the salt march shoot which used to be scorching and insufferable they usually had nowhere to stick,” provides Ritu.
“It’s the top of an technology. Even supposing she used to be Mumbai-based, we at all times stored involved. The remaining time I met her used to be at a manner week in Jaipur 5 – 6 years in the past. We have been there for 3 days judging crafts of the area,” she remembers.
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